Classic but gruelling on-road ride over a 2488m pass, culminating with incomparable Himalayan views at Daman. The ride begins on the Kathmandu- Pokhara Hwy, which gives the only access to the valley. After leaving the valley, the highway descends to Naubise, at the base of the Mahesh Khola Valley, 27km from Kathmandu. … Start a 35km climb to Tistung (2030m) past terraced fields carved into steep hillsides. On reaching the pass at Tistung (2030m) you descend for 7km into the beautiful Palung Valley before the final steep 9km climb to Daman, at a height of 2322m.
Lonely Planet: Nepal, 9th Edition. pg.296
Well, I remember I cried. Twice. It was exhausting. We left the Lonely Planet book in the hostel to keep weight down (we had just bought day packs), and figured we couldn’t really get lost as we had one turnoff, in Naubise. When we got to the Palung Valley, knowing that we certainly hadn’t missed Daman, but had no idea how much further… the journey suddenly got a lot harder.
29th Oct. 14.
Yesterday we cycled to a small town called Daman, 80 km from Kathmandu… uphill and in three valleys across!
Leaving Kathmandu, we instantly regretted not having something to cover our mouths and noses with. Our mucus was black from exhaust and fumes within meters. Weaving in and out of huge mountain trucks, small import cars and dodging the odd cart, the ride down to get outside of Kathmandu’s Ring Road was exhilarating and congested. And very ugly. The snaking highway from Chasapani to Naubise slowed the traffic down immensely, more so for the single lane switch-backs that the buses needed to navigate. On two wheels however, we quickly covered the first 30 km. We simultaneously agreed that we would return with the bus for the the last leg, from Naubise to Kathmandu, the following day.
The next 50 km was predominately uphill 🙂 Honestly, if it was any steeper, any more traffic, or if the bikes were shyte – we couldn’t have done it! Honestly² it wasn’t physically challenging- at no point were we really “puffing” or completely done for. It was however, one of the most mentally challenging things I have ever done! I realised coming down [from Daman] that half my problem was that after Tisung – we didn’t really know where we were, in relation to where we were heading! After Palung Valley (which we didn’t remember existed!) the road just seemed to never end. Without the Lonely Planet’s basic description of the trip, we were just on a never-ending bike ride.
Palung Valley was gorgeous though – and it was nice to visit something out of the standard backpacker’s jurisdiction. Surprisingly, there were a few hotels and guest houses around! Given how big Palung is- we were surprised it wasn’t given more street creed in our journey! By the time we arrived in Palung town, it was mid-afternoon and we were starting to feel the mental drain and physical saddle sore! It was getting hard to sit down, adding to the strain that we still had at least 2 hours to go! If only we knew! I think normally, we should have made it in about 1.5 hours but we were getting to the point when we would walk for 50m or so, just so our legs could fully extend. 60km in, we kept guessing over every peak where Daman could be. We had no idea where, or how much longer we had to go! We had been going up hill all day. It was only when we thought we could see the lookout tower for the Daman Mountain “resort” atop a hill in the distance we though we might be getting close. Looking like a communications tower from an airport, it was seemingly out-of-place.
We arrived in Daman as the sun was kissing the mountains good-night. We stayed at the Daman Mountain “resort”, and as the complex contained the viewing tower that we would watch the sunrise from, we took what we could get. We ended up getting a room that had hot water, but didn’t end up showering because we were too cold! (It was the electric variation that took 10min to warm up!) The real treat was the small television not understanding any channels, it was nice to have something to watch and relax after a full day’s ride.
6:15- And the Himalayas looked amazing!
I didn’t realise how much the pollution from Kathmandu effected viewing the mountains. By 8:00 we couldn’t see them because of the glare. I think we saw Everest but it was quite small given how far away it was! The Annapurna and Langtang mountains looked enormous though! I’m glad we got up for the sunrise, as the best time to see the mountains lit up was just before the sun came into our view. It was beautiful. The Himalayas were all colours of glowing blue and purple. With the sun coming up, they shifted to warm tones of orange and yellow. The fact that I most likely won’t see the mountains again like that definitely made the trip worth the bike ride.
After a quick breakfast of curry and donuts, we zipped back. Hilariously fun. Two small hill climbs and 80km downhill. Best riding day ever! Once we got back to Naubise, we caught a local public bus back to the Ring Road in KTM- only costing us Rs100 🙂 The bikes were thrown on the roof (and tied down!) and we were saved from climbing the big hill while using exhaust fumes as our source of oxygen 🙂 Dollar well spent!